We slowly climbed, breathless into the mountains early in the day. The shade and frost kept the Monarchs huddled together on high tree branches above. The dull masses of folded wings could easily be overlooked or mistaken for clumps of moss. Then as the sun broke through the oyamel fir forest, melted the frost and warmed the air, the butterflies stirred to life. A shower of orange confetti looking for the sunniest spots to warm themselves. En masse they fluttered to puddles and slow-moving streams to drink, allowing us to experience migratory Monarch butterflies in Mexico, at close range.
Witnessing a kaleidoscope of Monarch butterflies overwintering in Mexico’s central highlands is a bucket-list adventure. Join me as we explore how to experience this spectacle with everything you need to know to make your visit unforgettable.
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Table of contents
- Monarch butterfly migration 101
- Where to See Monarch butterflies in Mexico
- Inside the butterfly sanctuaries
- Best time to see Monarch butterflies in Mexico
- How long do you need to see the Monarch butterflies?
- Getting to the Monarch butterfly reserves
- Guided tour versus independent exploring
- Where to stay
- Additional travel tips for visiting the Monarch butterflies
- What to wear to see Monarch butterflies in Mexico
Monarch butterfly migration 101
Each year, millions of Monarch butterflies embark on one of nature’s most extraordinary journeys—a multi-generational migration spanning up to 4,800-kilometres (3,000-miles). This incredible feat begins in southern Canada and the northern United States during the spring. Monarchs gradually make their way south, arriving in the highlands of central Mexico by late autumn.
But why do Monarch butterflies migrate? The answer lies in their need to escape freezing northern winters. Their destination? The oyamel fir forests of central Mexico, where cool, moist conditions create a perfect overwintering habitat, about 2500 to 3500-m (about 2-mi) above sea level.
In a typical year there are four generations of Monarchs. Three of these generations live up to 6-weeks, the first of which is born in the southern USA and migrate north to lay their eggs. They yield a second generation, born in the north, where they breed and live out their lives. Their offspring, the third generation, are also born and breed in the north. They are the parents of the fourth, “super-generation” who live 8-9-months by delaying reproduction, and migrate south to Mexico. The super generation breed in the spring and migrate to the southern U.S. to start the process over.
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Where to See Monarch butterflies in Mexico
The best places to see Monarch butterflies in Mexico, are sanctuaries in Michoacán and State of Mexico. There are six open to the public each year, of which these four are the most visited:
El Rosario Sanctuary (Michoacán)
This reserve is the most popular and developed, because it has the largest colony of butterflies. Located near the town of Angangueo, it is roughly 100-km (62-mi) from Morelia and 188-km (117-mi) from Mexico City. Admission is MXN100 (Under USD5). The hike is 1,220-m with 221-m elevation gain beginning on a concrete path with stairs, giving way to a well-maintained dirt trail. Due to the popularity of this site, there is an 18-minute time limit as the top of the trail where the butterflies are densest.
Sierra Chincua Sanctuary (Michoacán)
A quieter, less crowded alternative to El Rosario, offering a more serene experience with similar awe-inspiring views of butterfly-laden trees. There is also an overlook, the view from which is depicted on the Mexican 100-peso bank note. Admission to Sierra Chincua is MXN100 (Under USD5) and a guide is mandatory. The guides are volunteers and are paid based on your tips. They only speak Spanish, so for the most part they are there ensure you stay on trail and adhere to the 18-minute time limit.
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Piedra Herrada Sanctuary (State of Mexico)
The closest reserve to Mexico City, offers easier access for day trips. If you’re staying overnight, the resort town of Valle de Bravo is a nice spot on a mountain lake, nearby.
Cerro Pelon (State of Mexico)
This sanctuary falls within the UNESCO-listed Monarch Butterfly Biosphere Reserve. It is a much less visited site, located on the outskirts of Macheros, 165-km (102-mi) from Mexico City. The trail here is steep and rugged.
Inside the butterfly sanctuaries
There are a few practical things to note about experiencing the butterflies:
1. You need to be able-bodied and willing to hike or take a horseback ride up a steep slope. There is a hike required at all the sanctuaries, but the intensity and trail maintenance varies. You will also be in the altitude sickness zone (above 2,500-m or 8,200-ft), therefore physical activity will be more laboursome and you need to allow more time to take it slowly.
2. Silence is golden when you’re a Monarch. Visitors are asked to be quiet and silent devices when you reach the butterfly colonies. No camera flashes and drones are not permitted.
3. Do not wander off designated trails and stick to time limits. Butterfly numbers have declined significantly in recent decades, partly due to habitat destruction in Mexico as well as the U.S. and Canada. Please help keep their habitat intact by staying on the path and adhering to time limits so that there is no overcrowding.
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Best time to see Monarch butterflies in Mexico
The Monarch butterflies begin arriving in central Mexico around late October and stay until March. However, peak viewing time is from late January to early March. This is when the colonies are at their densest, and warmer temperatures encourage the butterflies to take flight.
How long do you need to see the Monarch butterflies?
Plan for at least 2-3 days to visit one or more sanctuaries. Butterfly activity depends heavily on the weather—sunny, mild days are ideal for seeing them in flight, while colder or rainy conditions keep them clustered on trees high above the ground. Hedge your weather bets by allowing a couple of days, across different sights to improve your chances of seeing these insects at their most active.
Getting to the Monarch butterfly reserves
The most efficient way to reach the Monarch butterfly sanctuaries is by travelling to Mexico City (MEX) or Morelia (MLM. From these larger cities, guided tours and day trips are readily available. Many operators offer round-trip transportation to the reserves, often including expert naturalist guides. Independent travellers can catch public transport or hire a driver to reach towns like Zitácuaro and Angangueo.
From there, local transport including taxis and affordable combis (aka collectivos) are available to take you to the reserves. Using taxis, requires you to negotiate a return rate with your driver, who will wait for you outside the butterfly reserve. Combis are an informal system of public transport that provides inter-town travel in the region. There is no set schedule, so you may have to wait some time for your return ride.
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Guided tour versus independent exploring
Organised tours and independent travel are both great options depending on your desired level of adventure. Guided tours are more expensive, but streamline the logistics and let you enjoy the journey. Many tour operators offer all-inclusive packages from Mexico City to El Rosario or Piedra Herrada, including transportation, guides, and meals. These tours are ideal for those who prefer a structured itinerary with expert insights.
Independent exploration offers more flexibility, but requires a sense of adventure and at least a basic grasp of the Spanish language. You may find some smalltown services, such as restaurants, don’t open unless there is a larger tour group in town to warrant them opening their doors. This can leave you with few options and you need to have a self-sufficient, go-with-the-flow attitude.
Where to stay
Staying near the Monarch butterfly sanctuaries allows you to make the most of your visit. Angangueo, a Pueblo Mágico, is a charming base for exploring El Rosario and Sierra Chincua. This picturesque town offers a mix of family-run hotels and guesthouses, giving visitors a glimpse of local life. However, amenities are limited and central heating in accommodations is non-existent. Zitácuaro is a bigger town with more tourism services on offer, but is further away from these sanctuaries.
Alternatively, Valle de Bravo, known for its lakeside beauty and adventure activities, provides easy access to Piedra Herrada Sanctuary and a broader range of accommodation options. These range from luxury hotels to budget-friendly stays.
For a larger city experience with excellent amenities, consider Morelia, the capital of Michoacán. From Morelia, it’s about a 3-hour drive to the butterfly sanctuaries, making it another possible base for day trips if you don’t mind a longer ride. Morelia’s vibrant colonial charm and UNESCO-listed historic centre make it a worthy destination in its own right, with plenty of hotels, dining and transport options.
In all these locations, hospitality is warm and welcoming, though internet connectivity may be limited. Booking your stay well in advance is essential, especially during peak butterfly season from January to February. We tried booking tours (even private ones) 4-6-weeks out and operators were completely booked.
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Additional travel tips for visiting the Monarch butterflies
Some practical tips for planning your experience with the Monarch butteflies in Mexico:
Arrive early – Morning visits are less crowded, but if you’re too early, the butterflies will still be waking up. Butterflies are more likely to take flight as the day warms.
Hire a local guide – Their expertise enhances your experience and supports the local economy.
Be mindful of altitude – Sanctuaries are over 2,500-m (8,200-ft) above sea level; pace yourself to avoid altitude sickness. If you’re prone to the effects of altitude, travel to a higher location a day in advance to begin acclimatising.
Bring cash in small bills – Most rural areas lack card facilities and cannot change large bills.
Safety – Cartel activity affects the stability and safety of these parts of Mexico. While the sanctuaries themselves generally remain safe for tourists, the road travel and nearby towns can be a concern. Check current travel advisories from the U.S. Department of State or the equivalent in your home country. Exercise caution when travelling.
What to wear to see Monarch butterflies in Mexico
Here are some specific packing tips on what to wear to see the Monarch butterflies. See this post for a full Mexico packing list.
Layers – Evenings and mornings are cold, but temperatures rise by midday. Naturally, you will heat up as you hike uphill, then cool down once you stop at the top. The higher altitudes will be cooler too. Ensure you can add and remove layers to adjust to temperature changes.
Sturdy walking shoes – Trails can be steep and uneven, with dust, tree roots, rocks etc. Towns may have cobblestones and sidewalks are very uneven and ill-maintained.
Sunscreen, hat and sunglasses – High-altitude sun is intense. UV radiation is more intense as altitude increases, so make sure you have sun protection.
Rain jacket – Be prepared for sudden weather changes.
Warm pyjamas – As I mentioned, most of the accommodation you will come across does not have central heating. Ensure you have warm enough clothing for sleeping. I recommend a thermal base layer and thick socks. A pair of slippers would not go astray, as the floor in our hotel room was freezing.
Experiencing the Monarch butterflies in Mexico is a wonder-filled adventure. Follow these tips to ensure a smooth, safe, and inspiring trip—and don’t forget to share your favourite Monarch moments in the comments below!
Peace, love & inspiring travel,
Madam ZoZo
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