Many of us have purchased an item of traditional dress from another culture while travelling. You might have even been gifted one. There are many reasons why they make great souvenirs of time spent abroad. As a textile lover, sewer and general slow fashion enthusiast, these make appealing souvenirs to me. Increasingly though, I’ve found myself asking where is the line between cultural appreciation and appropriation—and I know many other conscious travellers feel the same way.
Let’s discuss some dos and don’ts of buying and wearing other culture’s traditional dress. This is in no way an exhaustive list, but a rough guide to a subject that is highly contextual and nuanced. Cultural appropriation has many facets that need to be considered.
Do learn/know something about the culture whose traditional dress you are purchasing
In the west we have a bad habit of using the term “traditional costume”. I don’t have to tell you, dear traveller, that traditional dress is not a “costume”, but an important element of a culture. Wearing national dress pieces is intended as a respectful ode to traditions and cultures you have spent time with and know something about.
Be sure to educate yourself about the culture of the particular piece you plan to buy/wear, including how your own culture has historically related to those people. There will be much greater sensitivity around cultures that have historically clashed, or where there has been a power imbalance e.g. colonialism, slavery etc.
Don’t wear a traditional dress piece from a culture you feel/behave negatively towards
It may seem obvious to say that wearing the traditional dress of a culture in order to mock or disrespect them, is cultural appropriation (at least we hope it’s obvious). It’s also cultural appropriation if you are racist or commit microaggressions towards those same people.
This one takes some more self-awareness and examination of how you were raised and what attitudes to other cultures prevail where you spend most of your time. Microaggressions are just that “micro” – you may not be aware of your own subconscious thoughts or behaviours.
Do ask someone of that culture how they feel about you wearing an item of their tradition
It doesn’t hurt to ask someone (or multiple people) of that culture whether they mind you wearing their style of clothing. Furthermore, be respectful of their answer even if it is negative. Listen to their reason and use it to gain a better understanding.
It’s easy to think “well they wouldn’t sell it to me, if they weren’t comfortable with me wearing it”. Consider that many things are sold, particularly in the developing world, out of the burden of financial distress and not a true desire to sell or commodify a culture.
Don’t wear another culture’s traditional dress head to toe
One or two pieces can be respectful, a full outfit smacks of imitation. Though we like to think imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, in this case it isn’t. What it is, is cultural appropriation. We want to honour cultures and their clothing, not try to pass them off as our own.
Do learn about the specific dress piece or accessory
Many traditional pieces are rich with symbolism. Educate yourself about the particular piece you plan to buy/wear. Learn how it is traditionally worn and any etiquette that goes along with it, so you don’t wear it on the wrong occasion or in a disrespectful way.
Alternatives
If in doubt, you can always find pieces inspired by or made with the same techniques/textiles/decoration, rather than the true original. That is to say, items made by the same people but for tourists or a more general fashion purpose (not knock-offs made elsewhere, by other cultures who don’t give credit to the original idea and creators).
Another option, is treating these pieces as the artistic works they are. Instead of wearing them you can frame or hang clothing items as wall hangings. Use textiles to create contemporary outfits that reflect your own culture or decorate your home. Get creative!
Enjoy your textile souvenirs and don’t stop appreciating these wonderful and diverse expressions of other cultures. I’m always open to other perspectives, please drop your thoughts in the comments below.
Peace, love & inspiring travel,
Madam ZoZo